The chironomid is an insect that goes by different names depending on the location. For instance, it is called "Buzzer" in England, "Duck Fly's" in Ireland, and "Chizzy Winks" in Florida, which I find amusing. In some eastern areas of Canada, it's also called a "Fish Fly." It goes by many names, and using any preferred name is acceptable.
"I haven't been motivated to write about chironomids because the fly-fishing community in North America has already exhausted the topic for the past thirty years. Countless authors have written numerous articles, and hundreds of fly patterns are available. Only a very few techniques and approaches are mentioned, presenting static tactics due to legal restrictions and cultural limitations in certain regions. Most legal restrictions focus on a one-fly method, although there are very few one-fly jurisdictions. Therefore, I'm not interested in writing about it from a one-fly perspective, as it has been covered extensively with little scope for further innovation." It may be time to revisit older methods and multiple fly setups, and to introduce a few new ones to expand our capabilities with this bug. Advancing in our thinking and abilities makes us better anglers.
When I first became interested in competitive Walleye fishing in 1979, the Lindner brothers from Minnesota introduced a revolutionary technique known as the Lindy Rig method. This method involved suspending or pulling simple baits, such as worms, minnows, and leeches, slightly off the bottom using a floating or control device, such as a Phelps Floater, Spin'n Glows or an elongated, hollow Styrofoam tube.
This technique allowed the baits to float off the bottom during the retrieve, making it easier to catch fish. When an angler slowly retrieved the Styrofoam float with a bait hook, it would pull down, and when paused, it would lift the bait (worm, leech, or minnow) off the bottom with short or long leaders. It was a spectacular bottom-up fishing method that revolutionized the fishing world at the time and remains prevalent today.
Bob Church and Charles Jardine of the United Kingdom authored a book titled "Stillwater Trout Tactics" in 1989. The book briefly demonstrates one of the most effective methods for static to slow-moving fishing and suspending flies for fly anglers in lakes and reservoirs. Both Church and Jardine are considered legends in the UK fishing community, and they compare to North American fly-fishing legends such as Wulff, Whitlock, and Kreh of the same era. Despite the method's effectiveness, Church shared little about it, and the tactic continues to resonate with me today, as do a few other highly effective tactics for chironomid angling.
In the middle of the Early Season, there is a saying that suggests the harder you fish and the further you cast your line, the more fish you'll catch. After the winter and the ice has melted, the surviving fish feed more naturally on small black insects and chironomid pupae when the water temperature at the surface reaches 8 degrees centigrade. Fly anglers should earmark a change in approach for the mid-early season. During this transition period, the trout leave the deeper depths of the pre-spawn areas and begin zone-feeding. Depending on the weather, fish will rise and fall with the chironomid pupae that have ascended from the bottom mud-dwelling larvae stage. Once the bloodworms reach the pupal stage, they ascend and descend through the water layers until the conditions are right for hatching. The pupa is not a free-swimming organism like mayfly nymphs. Movement through the water is a haphazard, rapid wriggling motion, making them very vulnerable to predation by fish. This vulnerability is particularly pronounced during the pupa stage, which can last for days or possibly weeks, as they wait for the right weather conditions to hatch. When the weather conditions are suitable, the pupa ascends to the surface and hatches into the winged adults we call midges.
Concentrate on sub-surface tactics during this transitional stage that lasts a few days to five weeks until the lake olives (mayfly) hatch. These are small mayflies known as Callibaetis nymphs. They hatch in large numbers, and dry fly fishing for rising trout in the right conditions will predominate over the chironomid pupa. Fly anglers can use the same tactics with these mayflies, and a change in the fly patterns will be to patterns like Pheasant Tail Nymphs, Crunchers, and other slender nymph profile flies of your liking.
The predominant chironomid colour variation in the early season is black. The patterns primarily used will feature a colour scheme of black with silver, black with red, or black and white, and will range in size from 10 to 14.
A good chironomid fishing pattern should be lifelike and suggestive in style, too, with an impressionistic feel. It should also have a subtle target point to attract the fish to your fly. They make chironomid patterns stand out from the thousands of others in the water. With chironomids, I always aim for a segmented body and place the target point of the wing buds in the thorax section. For example, my Flexi Buzzer features hot orange wing pads, and my Slurpee Buzzer has a white bead head that can be paired with an added orange, black, or claret collar for a natural appearance. Both patterns work very well and make the fly stand out by adding a subtle touch of brightness with the flashback design. However, you can go overboard with the target points and flash. When there is too much flash, you will catch young, newly stocked fish drawn to the pattern's increased colour. The same patterns, paired with gentle colour schemes, often look more natural when softly toned down, especially when you're aiming to catch larger and older fish. I use patterns that remain lifelike with specific target points and triggers rather than an exact imitation. I do not want my fly to resemble the other 10,000 naturals in the water. That said, I do like it to be very similar and natural-looking. It's a fine line to get a pattern to stand out slightly and pull the fish to your team rather than spook them with too much flash. I prefer a thin flashback cover or occasionally Fluoro cheeks, but not simultaneously. As I previously mentioned, bright fluorescent materials are most attractive to stocked fish. They often put off larger resident fish. When I do a chironomid pattern incorporating flash and fluoro, it is primarily a photo opportunity to catch an angler. The fishing patterns, as previously mentioned, are one or the other.
When fishing any chironomid tactic, I always place my brightest pattern at the head of the team (top fly dropper) as the highest pattern on the retrieve. Fish are attracted to it and pulled toward your flies because it reflects sunlight more effectively. It will attract stockies and resident fish to the more natural patterns further down the cast. It doubles your chances, as any fish investigating your pattern from depth must swim by the other natural flies on your cast twice (on the way up and on the way down).
The prime time to catch trout is from mid-morning to early evening when the water temperature is not too cold, and their activity is at its highest. When the surface temperature reaches 8 degrees centigrade, it triggers the first significant hatches and movement of fauna, with abundant trout swimming in the mid-water column and near the surface. Suppose there is a considerable hatch, but you don't see any trout activity on the surface. In that case, the water is still too cold for them near the surface. The trout will continue to feed on the larvae and emerging pupa, which are often suspended deeper in the lower and mid-levels of the water column. Warming weather and water trends will be crucial for these locations.
Good early-season locations will be those that are protected from strong winds at this time of year, but still have enough water movement to create a small ripple. Warming weather trends will be key to selecting your fishing location, especially with mild warming winds. Points of bays and shallow-to-moderate-depth shoals with four to twelve feet of water would be my first choice, providing ample room for fishable water. Early-season nymphing/chironomids must be retrieved exceedingly slowly. The less you move your flies, the more fish you catch. Let any wind with a floating-line tactic, in either a washing or descent-line presentation, pull the fly line downwind. Casting perpendicular to the wind will be an advantage as the arch in the fly line develops and moves slowly downwind, dragging the leader set up and flies. This tactic is a typical setup when fishing with floating fly lines.
Use wind apps
Utilize wind apps for assistance in measuring wind speed, direction, intensity, and adjustments while referencing the Beaufort Scale
In spring, the most productive area for fishing chironomids is a band of water 10–60 meters off the shoreline in most eutrophic lakes, at a depth of approximately 6-15 feet. The chironomids live in this area. The chironomid larva begins life on the bottom in the silt and mud. Then, it rises in the water as a pupa and eventually hatches as an adult-winged midge at the surface or dies, drowns and even cripples if the water and weather conditions are not ideal.
Depending on water temperature, underwater currents, and surface tension, various chironomid species will be found at a range of depths throughout the day. This is why the trout feed at a variety of depths and why you catch on different droppers during the day. Multiple species can rise simultaneously.
By fishing multiple flies on a leader, you can effectively cover a range of water depths. Having flies at different depths increases your chances of success.
The retrieve in any descent, straight-line, or washing-line method is crucial for triggering a positive bite reaction from the trout. In all cases, the hang is the most critical part of the retrieve, which is often overlooked. Here are the keys and secrets to the retrieval.
The most effective retrieve for buzzer fishing is generally slow and subtle, with a focus on natural movements. A slow figure-of-eight retrieve is often recommended, and incorporating pauses or short pulls can mimic the natural behaviour of buzzers rising and falling in the water column.
Here's a more detailed breakdown and summary:
1. Slow Retrieve:
· Figure-of-Eight:
A slow, figure-of-eight retrieve is a classic buzzer-fishing technique that keeps the flies moving subtly and naturally.
· Gentle Pulls:
Incorporate occasional, short pulls during the retrieve to mimic the upward movement of buzzers as they try to hatch. This can be incorporated every 15 seconds on a single retrieve.
· Pauses:
Allowing the flies to pause after a retrieve can be highly effective, as fish often strike as the flies begin to sink.
2. Static Fishing:
Dead Drift:
Allowing the flies to drift naturally can be very effective, especially when water and wind conditions permit it.
Bung/Indicator:
Using a bung or indicator can help present the flies statically, but this method may limit fishing depth and coverage of a larger area. Fish will have to come to you rather than searching with many casts into a region of interest.
Hang at the End:
Always hang the flies at the end of the retrieve, lifting the rod tip naturally to bring the flies up in the water column. The hang should last 5 to 10 seconds, and sometimes longer. Fish like to follow flies, and the hang will catch those that did follow your team. Placing a hang marker at twice your rod length on the fly line helps you know exactly how much line remains out from your rod tip, ensuring consistent hang presentation. Once the line marker comes into your hand, it is time to commence the hang.
3. Line Management:
Keep in Contact:
Maintaining good contact with the flies is essential, as takes can be subtle. This is most effectively achieved with casts of 30-40 feet or less.
Monitor Line:
Watching the end of the fly line can help detect takes. A Midge tip or Indicator line aids visual detection, and adding Mucilin to the line can enhance visibility and keep the front end of the fly line floating.
Cast at Angles:
Avoid casting directly in front of the boat; casting at angles allows for a more natural retrieve.
4. Depth Control:
Vary Depth:
Experiment with different depths by adjusting the retrieve speed, line type, and fly size to find the optimal combination.
Heavy Point Fly:
Using a heavier buzzer on the point can help get the flies down to the desired depth.
Leader Length:
Adjusting the leader length and fly spacing on a bung tactic can also help with depth control.
5. When to Adjust:
Fish Strikes:
If fish are taking the flies during the retrieve, consider speeding it up slightly.
Selective Fish:
If fish are being selective, consider scaling down the leader and using fewer flies.
Experiment:
Don't be afraid to experiment with different retrieves, depths, and fly patterns to find what works best on the day.
The Control Fly Method targets the bottom third of the water column. It entails using a sinking line (Di 3/5/7) equipped with a team of two or three flies. The buoyant point fly helps lift the other flies when the line is stationary, and it pulls downward when a long pull is used with a figure-of-eight retrieve. The frequent pauses allow the patterns to lift again. A continuous, subtle up-and-down movement is often a trigger point for most fish. This tactic is particularly effective in calm waters and on slightly choppy days.
Intense, abundant hatches can cause an inherent problem when they are all the same size and colour. It can be beneficial to be the elephant in the room by upsizing your fly pattern. Or hot-spotting the chironomid with Fluoro Orange highlights. The pattern needs to stand out in the crowd, and we should turn the odds in our favour before the hatch peaks. Conversely, reducing pattern size is effective when the hatch begins to diminish. A hatch can last from hours to three days. The chironomid pupa will spend much of its time on or near the substrate where it develops. Then, the moment for the journey to the surface to hatch arrives, marked by a slow ascent and frequent pauses.
"They will lift by the thousands and stop in the sticky surface film, the meniscus." Refers to chironomid behaviour, allowing us to fish our fly patterns at any depth between the substrate and the surface. A helpful tip is to start fishing more deeply in the morning, then adjust your fly's depth and tactic as the day progresses to search the mid- and upper sections of the water column. To effectively fish at different depths, I mentally divide the water column into thirds, most commonly up to twenty feet. I adjust my tactics and setups to suit the bottom, middle, or top third of the water column. Fishing with a two- or three-fly approach allows you to fish at multiple depths and assess feeding levels. Remember, the less you move your flies, the more fish you will catch during this time of year.
In spring, the most productive area for fishing chironomids is a band of water 10–60 meters off the shoreline in most eutrophic lakes, at a depth of approximately 6-15 feet. The chironomids live in this area. The chironomid larva begins life on the bottom in the silt and mud. Then, it rises in the water as a pupa and eventually hatches as an adult-winged midge at the surface or dies, drowns and even cripples if the water and weather conditions are not ideal.
Depending on water temperature, underwater currents, and surface tension, the various chironomid species will be at different depths throughout the day. This is why the trout feed at a variety of depths and why you catch on different droppers during the day. Multiple species can rise simultaneously.
By fishing multiple flies on a leader, you can effectively cover a range of water. Having flies at different depths increases your chances of success.
"Using a fly at the right depth is more effective than using three flies at the wrong depth."...fish slow...Using the right fly at the correct depth can be the ultimate game-changer when catching more fish. A single fly perfectly placed at the proper depth can outperform three incorrectly placed flies. So, why settle for less when you can increase your chances of success with a straightforward adjustment? Giving the fish time to react to your ascending and descending presentations, in controlled, direct contact with the team of flies, is the key to success when fishing slowly.
To set up a simple washing line for fly fishing, you will need a floating line and a long leader, ranging from eighteen to twenty feet. You should space your flies three to four feet apart and position them on the last ten feet of the leader. This approach allows the point fly to act as both an indicator and a disturbance fly, attracting attention through sound transfer into the water column. It will also put tension against the balance of the leader when a slow retrieve is incorporated to aid in the lift of the other two suspended fly patterns. The two dropper flies will be positioned from on the surface with dry flies to an inch below the surface or deeper with wet flies or nymph-type patterns, or down to about 2 feet in depth, with natural standard gauged hooks or 1X or 2X strong hooks as weighted fly patterns. You may use patterns such as epoxy buzzers, snatchers, crunchers, and a wide selection of wet flies. This setup is particularly effective for chironomids, Mayfly nymphs, Corixae, and other emergent hatches. Under the right hatching conditions, hundreds of thousands of chironomid pupae will be suspended in the top two feet of water. A simple washing-line setup with a floating line and a well-greased, long monofilament or copolymer eighteen- to twenty-foot leader is required for dry flies, while a degreased leader is used for sinking patterns. We will space our flies four to five feet apart, on the latter ten feet of the leader. This setup enables the floating-point fly to function as both an indicator and a disturbance fly, attracting attention through sound transfer into the water column. The two dropper flies will fish from the surface with dry flies to about an inch below the surface, and then to about two feet in depth, using natural hook weight with patterns like epoxy buzzers, snatchers, crunchers, and a host of wet flies. Chironomids, Crunchers, Corixae, Cormorants (Mini fry) and Snatcher patterns are especially effective with this setup when an emergence occurs. Hundreds of chironomid pupae may be suspended in the top two feet for the right hatching conditions, as will shoals of new fry minnows.
The Washing Line Method is used to fish the top third and mid-third of the water column.
What is a washing line, you ask? In the fly-fishing world, it is one of the most effective lake-fishing techniques developed over the last three decades. The fly angler can suspend flies near or on the surface. Typically, when fishing for chironomids or nymphs, they would descend and ascend through the water column. A washing line would allow you to suspend your flies and climb and descend them in the surface region for extended periods. A washing line also has two points of high strike detection when either moves. Both the floating line end and the buoyant point fly are the indicators.
Since the advanced chironomid anglers popularized the method in the mid-1980s, the washing line method has become a mainstay tactic. Every fly-fishing magazine overseas will have excellent articles or mention something related to this technique in almost every edition. Leaders, fly types, rod types, retrieve styles, and fishing conditions are similar to what most of us currently use on our local lakes. Washing line techniques are versatile enough to be used at shallow depth intervals over weed beds or even through standing debris, such as Northern Rush fields. These areas, along with others such as lake pelagic regions, are often associated with marginal zones and shorelines. Fly anglers can use this tactic to fish from drifting boats, anchored boats, or the bank of a lake. Some even fish the system from a slowly trolled boat. They cast to the side, allowing the boat to travel slowly and pull the system behind it before the next cast occurs. This is known as "Back Drifting". As an exceptionally effective way of getting multiple flies into the catching zone, it keeps your flies in the zone for longer periods. Washing line enthusiasts view this method as an advanced chironomid technique. However, it is also used to suspend many other food items, such as leeches, minnows, Backswimmers, mayfly nymphs, damselfly nymphs, caddis pupae, and even lures, streamers, and wet flies. The system's simple mechanics enable it to be used in a wide range of water conditions during the open-water seasons. This same presentation and mechanics in the early, mid-season, and late seasons can offer different flies representing various aquatic insects and other near-surface fauna. It is versatile enough to use throughout the changing open-water seasons: early, mid, and late seasons. You only need fish feeding in the surface area and down to six feet in the water column.
(Fish feeding at the surface and slightly below - top one-third of the water column)
A washing line system uses a highly buoyant fly at the point position, with one or more flies suspended from short four- to six-inch dropper tags on your leader, which will be at or below the water surface and 3-5 feet apart, all while being attached to your floating line.
Descent/Straight Line Setups - leaving the best for last.
Here are some tips for enjoying "lake-style" fishing during the early and mid-season. When fishing for trout, try casting downwind off the port side of a wind-drifting boat. The key to successful fly fishing has always been the combination of fly contact and control of the fly and line. Unfortunately, some modern methods for lake fishing have overlooked this simple principle.
The most important aspects of fishing a decent line method are the area we fish, the depth we identify fish to be, the speed of our retrieve or lack thereof, and the time we allow the team of flies to sink to potential feeding depths.
Starting with thinly designed fly patterns, such as North Country Spiders, wet flies, or anorexic chironomid larva or pupa patterns, and even skinny micro leech patterns (1-4), and starting to fish shallow is clever when you're unsure which flies to use or at what depth. Assuming fish are on or near the bottom often puts your fly selection well below where the fish are. Sadly, it is a common practice among many anglers in many lake scenarios. Fishing the layers in time-count intervals allows the team to sink through them while maintaining control, with direct contact, which is a better approach. We refer to this approach as 'fishing top down' in some circles. It will enable you to cover different water-column depths simultaneously and see where the fish hang out. A three-fly system will sink at a more defined arch in the leader. While one or two fly systems are in place, the arch will flatten out. During very slow retrieves, it will sink a bit deeper, and on quicker retrieves, the drag created will lift it higher in the water column. Knowing this, we can make the most of this situation to our advantage. One fly allows a single fly to find its feeding depth at a single level. Two- and three-fly systems allow two or three flies to search different depths simultaneously. The fly the fish takes in the two- or three-fly system quickly tells you whether the fish are deep, mid-range, or shallower near the surface.
I have confidence in only a handful of flies, each with a different pattern, that I find helpful. I run two or three different point flies and four or five patterns on my droppers. Not having a wide variety of patterns to use this time of year does not concern me, as I am more confident in most patterns, and my focus is on how to fish them successfully. The most significant difference, and most important to me, between the flies is the variation in hook shank gauges, which affect hook strength and sink rate. Hooks then have the weight and strength to pull even the largest fish in the lake, whether straight-shanked or curved. But more so, it allows manipulation of sink rate and the development of a lovely arch in the leader, enabling the flies to fish more than one depth layer at a time when probing and searching for feeding layers. I always recommend that the heaviest fly is positioned at the end of the leader. The singular or multiple droppers can have the same hook shank gauge and can be reduced in weight by moving from 2X on the point to 1X gauge and standard gauge (0X) on the droppers. Sticking to the three-fly setup as an example. With the point fly being 2X, then on the mid dropper, we run a 1X and a (standard wire) 0X on the top dropper. If tied similarly, all three flies will have three different sink rates. Even in various colours, the same chironomid, nymph or wet fly pattern can have three weights and sink rates based on the hook gauge. The 2x, therefore, brings the point fly down faster than the other two droppers, creating an arch in the team of flies on the cast.
There is considerable room to experiment with various team configurations. The key is to count down each cast, starting with a 5-second count, then 10 seconds, then 15 seconds, and so on, until contact is made with the fish or the bottom.
Retrieves
The most effective retrieve for chironomids, also known as buzzers, is a slow, deliberate presentation that mimics their natural, slow movement in the water. A slow hand-twist retrieve, or a "figure-of-eight" retrieve, with plenty of pauses, is recommended. Paying close attention to your fly line for any subtle takes is crucial.
Effective retrieves:
1. Slow and Steady:
Minimal Retrieve:
Often, the best retrieve is no retrieve at all. Allow the natural currents and wave action to impart subtle movement to the fly. If you're drifting in a boat, the boat will overcome your downwind cast. Simply pulling the line to match the boat's speed while still maintaining a tight line to the hooks is called a "negative retrieve".
Hand Twist Retrieve:
A slow, hand-twist retrieve, where you slowly rotate the fly line between your fingers, can be effective.
Inchworm Retrieve:
If a hand twist is too fast, try "inching" the fly back, making very short, slow pulls with the rod tip.
2. Pay Attention to Your Line:
Visual Cues:
Focus on the fly line, especially where it enters the water or mid-section. Any bowing or straightening of the line due to a fish taking the fly can be an indicator of a bite.
Feel the Takes:
While visual cues are essential, also pay attention to any subtle tugs or heaviness on the line, which could signal a fish taking the fly.
3. Depth is Key:
Fish the Hatch: Chironomids hatch in various depths, so it's essential to match your fly depth to the hatch and time of day.
Start Deep: When in doubt, start fishing your fly a foot or two off the bottom and adjust depth until you find where the fish are feeding.
Consider Sinking Lines: For deeper water, use sinking fly lines to get your fly down to the fish.
4. Adapt and Experiment:
Vary Your Retrieve:
Don't be afraid to experiment with different retrieve speeds and techniques until you find what the fish are responding to.
Match the Hatch:
If you see chironomids hatching, try to match the size and colour of your fly to the natural insects.
5. Location:
Shallow Water:
Chironomids often emerge in shallower areas, so look for drop-offs, shoals, and muddy bottoms in 12 feet of water or less.
Muddy Bottoms:
Trout will often slurp chironomids from the mud as they hatch and rise to the surface. This is common in Eutrophic lakes that lack chalk bottom shoals.
I hope you enjoyed this article on how I most frequently approach chironomid fishing.