Learning new, specialized stillwater tactics like the washing line (using a buoyant point fly to suspend nymphs) or descent line (a slowly sinking, unweighted team of flies) requires a systematic approach focusing on rig/leader construction, finding the right water conditions, and mastering the retrieve to keep flies in the strike zone longer. For beginners, here's what these terms mean: The rig is your complete setup—rod, reel, line, leader, and flies—put together for a particular fishing tactic. The leader is the clear section of line between your heavier fly line and your flies; its purpose is to help present the flies naturally in the water. The retrieve is simply the way you pull the line back in after casting, which controls the flies' movement and affects how attractive they look to fish.
For a beginner trout lake angler living in a multifly region, learning both the washing line and descent line (sinking line/chironomid) tactics is crucial because it provides a complete and diverse toolkit to target trout throughout the entire water column—from the surface down to the bottom—regardless of changing weather or seasonal conditions. Mastering these two methods allows an angler to switch between presenting flies high in the water (washing line) and deep (descent line), covering different depths to find where the fish are actively feeding. Between the two methods, they are consistently more effective than a singular fishing approach.
Best Approach to Learning a New Tactic
Start with the right setup. Don't use a standard river rig. For the washing line, you need a high-buoyancy point fly like a Booby, FAB, or Gurgler, and a fluorocarbon line to help your flies sink and stay less visible.
Practice on land before you go to the water. Set up a simple target on the grass, like a hula hoop or towel, to mark where you want your point fly to land. With your washing line setup, practice casting and aim for wide loops to avoid tangles. Keep practicing until you can hit the target regularly. This helps you get used to the rig's weight and feel before you start fishing.
Work on your retrieve and pause. Use the hanging technique by slowing down or stopping your retrieve at the end of a cast. This lets the nymphs sink in a V-shape or drift down slowly.
Keep your flies in the water as much as possible, even when you're moving spots. Fish often bite during the hang, so always make sure your flies are in the water.
The Washing Line Tactic
When to use these tactics: Try the washing line when the water is warmer, usually from May to October. It works best on overcast days or late summer evenings, and when fishing over weed beds or shallow spots. Use the descent line when fish are feeding on emerging insects or swimming in the upper 4 to 8 feet, especially if you need a slow presentation.
Why use these methods? The washing line lets you fish a buoyant point fly and nymphs together, keeping several flies at the right depth. The descent line creates a slow, natural up-and-down movement, copying how insects move in the water and reaching fish at different depths.
How to begin.
How to set up: For the washing line, use a floating or midge-tip line with a buoyant Booby or FAB on the end and light or unweighted nymphs or buzzers on droppers. For the descent line, use the same line or a slow-sinking one, and use lighter, unweighted flies along the leader for a gentle drop.
For the retrieve, make a long cast and give 2 or 3 sharp pulls to straighten the leader and make the booby land with a splash. Then use a very slow figure-of-eight or long, slow pulls. To do the figure-of-eight, hold the line between your thumb and first two fingers and move your hand in small circles so the line slides through your fingers in a figure 8 shape. This draws flies toward you with short, smooth moves that look natural in the water. Beginners should practice this slowly at first, focusing on smooth, even motions. For long pulls, draw the line in with slow, steady strips, pausing between each one to let the flies sink.
At the end of your retrieve, hold the rod steady so the flies can hang and stay suspended. This often triggers strong bites from fish.
The Descent Line Tactic
Use the descent line when fish are feeding on emerging insects or swimming in the upper 4 to 8 feet of water, and try a faster retrieve.
Why use it? The descent line creates a slow, natural up-and-down movement, copying how nymphs or chironomids rise and fall in the water.
How to:
Setup: This is similar to the washing line, but you usually skip the heavy Booby and use lighter, unweighted flies on a leader that sinks slowly and naturally.
Method: Cast out, let your setup sink to the depth you want, then use a very slow hand-twist or figure-of-eight retrieve. Pause often to let the flies sink slowly.
Tips for Success
Don't rip the fly out of the water at the end of your retrieve. Lift it smoothly to avoid splashing and scaring fish. Use the hang technique and drag the top fly slowly across the surface.
Watch your point fly. Use the buoyant fly at the end as a visual marker, like a bobber or strike indicator.
Make sure your leader is straight after casting so you can feel even the smallest bites.
Be flexible with your tackle. If fish are deeper, switch from a floating line to an intermediate or a midge-tip line, but keep the same washing-line leader setup.
When learning new fly-fishing tactics, focus first on understanding how your setup works and practice feeling the connection with your flies before worrying about catching fish.
1. The Washing Line Tactic
A "washing line" uses a buoyant fly on the point (end) of the leader to keep a team of nymphs, wet flies, chironomids or micro leeches suspended horizontally in the upper water layers.
Use this tactic from May to October when trout feed near the surface or over shallow weed beds, where sinking flies might snag.
Why it Works: It searches multiple depths simultaneously. The buoyant point fly (like a Booby or FAB) acts as both a depth regulator and a strike indicator.
How to Learn:
Rigging: Use a 12–22ft leader with 1–2 unweighted nymphs (like Diawl Bachs or Crunchers) on droppers spaced 3-5 feet apart and a high-floating fly on the point.
The "Plopping" Technique: Immediately after casting, give the line a few sharp pulls to straighten the leader and "plop" the Booby (point fly) on the surface to attract attention.
Retrieve: Use an ultra-slow figure-of-eight to keep in contact with the flies as they "hang".
2. The Descent (or Controlled Descent) Tactic
This focuses on maintaining a tight connection with the fly as it sinks through the water column to detect "on the drop" takes.
When to Use: In slow or cold water where fish are lethargic, or when they are actively intercepting food as it sinks.
Why it Works: Many takes occur within the first second of the fly entering the water; staying connected ensures you feel these soft, early strikes.
How to Learn:
Observation: Before fishing, drop your rig in the water in front of you and watch exactly how fast the dropper fly sinks and how the point fly reacts when pulled. This visualizes your "fishing window" and what the system is doing at a distance.
Tight Line Casting (Don't do this with a fly team): Focus on "stopping" the rod lower on the forward cast, but aim towards the horizon to keep the casting loop open before the fly/s even hits the surface. This reduces tangling of the dropper flies when the leader is tied correctly, and it allows the leader to fully straighten out over the surface before dropping onto the water.
General Learning Approach
Dry Land Practice: Use targets like hula hoops to master casting multi-fly rigs (for washing lines) or heavy sinking lines without tangling. Cast the point fly into the hula hoop to gauge casting length and targeting requirements.
Connection First: For any new tactic, prioritize "feeling" the flies over catching fish. Practice stripping the line just enough to eliminate the "hinge" between your rod tip and the water. Keep your rod tip on or in the water, pointed down your fly line, to maintain direct contact.
If you want to refine your fly choices, here's a more detailed breakdown of fly patterns for washing line setups:
In a washing line setup, the goal is to balance buoyancy and sink rate to keep your flies in the "strike zone." The pattern on the point (the very end of your leader) must be highly buoyant to suspend the others.
Point Flies (The Buoyancy)
These act as your "float" and depth regulator.
Boobies: These use large foam eyes for extreme buoyancy. Popular variations include the Gurglers, Booby, or FABs. Gurglers, Elevator Booby's and FAB's are extremely buoyant flies.
FABs (Foam Arsed Blobs): These have a foam butt that provides a slightly more subtle lift than a Booby.
High-Floating Dries: Patterns like the Foam Daddy, Chubby Chornobyl, or a well-greased Klinkhåmer are excellent for a more natural presentation on the surface with smaller dropper flies.
Trout Poppers or Skaters: Used to create more surface disturbance and attract aggressive fish with the deer hair or foam bodies.
Dropper Flies (The "Washing")
These are spaced between your fly line and the point fly. They should be unweighted or very lightly weighted so they don't drag the whole rig down too fast.
Diawl Bachs: A classic, sparse nymph that mimics many aquatic insects. The Red Holographic or Green Cheeked versions are lake staples.
Crunchers: These feature a hackle that traps air, helping them "hang" in the water longer. The Hares Ear Cruncher is a popular modern choice.
Buzzers (Chironomids): Imitate midge pupae. Use unweighted Epoxy Buzzers for faster sink, or Traffic Light Buzzers for visibility.
Cormorants: A slim, "fishy" attractor that works well when trout are feeding on pin fry or small minnows.
Hare's Ear & Pheasant Tail: Generalist nymphs that look like "buggy" food to trout year-round.
Rig Configurations
Standard Setup: 12–22ft leader with two nymphs on droppers and a Gurgler or Booby on the point.
Aggressive Setup: Use a FAB or Gurgler on the top dropper and a Booby on the point to keep the middle flies strictly horizontal.
Pro Tip: If you want to fish deeper (the descent approach), replace the buoyant point fly with a heavy weighted nymph or a slim, non-buoyant pattern like a Zebra Midge, a wire midge, or a Wire Bodied Prince Nymph.
Understanding the rig is vital, but equally important is matching your fly line to your desired fishing depth with the washing line tactic.
1. Floating Line
A full-floating line is the foundation of this method.
The Effect: The line stays entirely on the surface. Combined with a buoyant point fly, it keeps your nymphs in the top 6–12 inches of water.
Best For: Calm days when fish are "smutting" (feeding on tiny midges or nymphs), and Pinfry on the surface) or when fishing over very shallow weed beds.
2. Midge Tip (Sink Tip) Line
This is a floating line with a short (usually 3–6ft) clear intermediate tip that sinks slowly.
The Effect: The sinking tip acts as an anchor, pulling the end of the line just below the surface film. This removes the surface "bounce" caused by wind and waves, allowing for a much steadier, more natural retrieve.
Best For: Windy conditions or when fish are slightly deeper, at 2–4 feet.
Top Choice: The Midge Tip is designed to "park" just below the surface for better contact with the water.
3. Intermediate Line
Intermediate lines sink slowly throughout their entire length, typically at 0.5 to 1.5 inches per second (IPS).
The Effect: This creates a deeper "U" shape in your presentation. The line sinks below the surface, while your buoyant point fly (like a Gurgler or Booby) pulls the end of the leader back up toward the surface.
Best For: When fish are feeding deeper in the water column or in the middle layers. It is particularly effective for active fish willing to follow a fly moving upward at an angle.