Beginner Fly Selection

A beginner-friendly fly-fishing article that sorts flies by their form (profile) and function—whether they're on, in, or under the surface—is a wonderful way to make the often-overwhelming world of fly selection much easier to explore.

Not everything in the fly-fishing world is as black and white as it might seem. Let's think of it clearly as we start our journey. With thousands of flies available, it can be quite overwhelming, especially for those just starting. But being new also has its perks—because you tend to ask simple questions that even experienced anglers might overlook or find confusing. There's no single right way to go about it, but I've found that keeping things straightforward and focusing on a few key priorities in fly selection can really help—no matter where you are in the world. An old saying in fly selection goes: profile, size, and then colour. While the order might shift sometimes, for beginners, colour is usually the least crucial factor.

Here is a structured approach to featuring key patterns for a beginner's fly box.

The name of a fly isn't as crucial for newcomers, so don't worry too much about what to call it or what it is named. What's more important is understanding how a fly works and whether I can get my fly to where the fish are feeding. The key focus should be on the function and form, or in this case, the profile of the fly—whether it repels water or absorbs it—and how that influences where the fly sits—in, on, or below the surface (meniscus). Let's focus on understanding the basics first before diving into specialty fly designs or materials.

1. Introduction: The Functional Approach

The Problem: Beginners often feel overwhelmed by thousands of fly patterns.
The Solution: Stop focusing on specific insect or even fly pattern names (e.g., "Pale Morning Dun" or Drake) and focus on where the fish are feeding (the "function") and how the fly will function to sit on, in or below the surface.

The design and materials used for the fly significantly influence its behaviour. A heavier fly is less likely to sit on the surface and can be tailored to sink at different speeds, from slow to fast. This allows you to choose the perfect fly for your needs.

The Three Categories: Defined:

On the Surface (Dry Flies): Imitates adult bugs.
- In the Surface (Emergers/Wets): Imitates bugs breaking through
- Slightly Under the Surface (Nymphs/Streamers): Imitates larvae or fish.

The three areas mentioned are typically close to or at the surface, forming a thin region that can be easily covered. Just like in all cases, trout often reveal part of themselves or leave a natural footprint on the water's surface when feeding in the top few inches. To learn more about these footprints and what they reveal, be sure to read Rise Forms, where you'll find explanations of the different footprints trout leave behind.

2. Category 1: On the Surface (Dry Flies)

Function: Designed to float, imitating adult insects (mayflies, caddis) or land insects (ants, hoppers) that have fallen into the water.

Key Beginner Patterns:

Parachute Adams: The most versatile dry fly; imitates almost any mayfly.

Elk Hair Caddis: Excellent for imitating caddis and, in larger sizes, Grass Hoppers or Stoneflies, and sits well in rough water.

Chornobyl Ant / Foam Hopper: Large "terrestrial" patterns that float high attract big fish and are used to suspend a nymph or wet fly on a dropper system.

Beginner Tip: Treat these with floatant to keep them riding high.

3. Category 2: In the Surface Film (Emergers & Wets)

Function: Flies that hover in the "meniscus" (the surface tension of the water). They imitate larvae transforming into adults. These are often the most effective when fish are rising but not taking dry flies.

Key Beginner Patterns:

Klinkhåmer Special: A hybrid that sits partially in the water and partially on top.
Soft Hackle Hares Ear: Traditional wet fly that imitates struggling emergers.
F-Fly: A tiny, simple emerger for picky fish.

Beginner Tip: Soft Hackle and F-Fly patterns can be fished just under the surface or swung across the current.

4. Category 3: Under the Surface (Nymphs & Streamers)

Nymphs

Streamer

Function: Imitates aquatic nymphs (larvae), pupae, or small fish swimming below. This is where fish feed 90% of the time.

Sub-Category A: Nymphs (Small & Natural)

Pheasant Tail Nymph: Imitates mayfly nymphs.
Hare's Ear Nymph: A buggy, versatile nymph.
Prince Nymph: A flashy attractor nymph.

Sub-Category B: Streamers (Large & Active)

Woolly Bugger: The ultimate beginner flies: Imitates leeches, sculpins, or baitfish.
Hair Wing Streamers: A simplistic minnow pattern that can mimic, by size, from small baitfish to larger juvenile fish.

Beginner Tip: Use a tight line to the fly to help you see and feel when a fish takes your nymph or streamers. Keep the rod tip at or near the water's surface to maintain direct line contact. Nymphs can also be purchased with Bead Heads (Brass or Tungsten) for additional weight to sink the flies deeper.

5. Conclusion & Fly Selection Tips

Check the Water: If fish are jumping, use a Dry. If you see bugs in the water, use an Emerger. If you see nothing, use a Nymph/ streamer or lure-style pattern.
Size Matters: The fly's size is more important than the exact pattern. Check your local aquatic insects for average sizes in your area. From that average, have a fly selection with hook sizes one larger and one smaller. The three sizes will likely cover most of your yearly needs for your local water.
Colour: Concentrate on selecting fly colours based on brighter and darker patterns within each category. Lighter patterns should include shades close to white, light gray, light olive, tan, and yellow, while darker patterns should focus on black, dark olive, dark gray, and dark brown. Keep it simple.

o Purchase your flies in sets of three per fly size and style. One to fish with and a few spares in case you lose a fly.

o Store them in fly boxes by pattern and size.

Section-by-Section Content Tips

On the Surface: The Visual Game

Focus: Dry flies are used when fish are visibly "rising" to eat.

Key Feature: Use of buoyant materials like foam, deer hair, or hackle to keep them afloat.

Tip: Sight fishing with dry flies is the easiest for beginners to track visually.

In the Surface: The Trap

Focus: These insects are "vulnerable" targets because they are stuck in the water's surface film, often slow to emerge, crippled or at times drowned.

Key Feature: They often have a trailing "shuck" (fake skin) or sit half-submerged.

Tip: If you see fish swirling but not breaking the surface, an emerger is likely the answer.

Under the Surface: The Daily Bread

Nymphs: The nymphs catch fish all year because bugs live underwater most of their lives. Beginners should use a tight line approach to see and feel when a fish eats. A tight-line approach to nymph fishing is a method where you maintain a direct, taut connection between your rod tip (keep it low near the water surface – reduce slack) and your submerged flies.

Streamers: for "aggressive" fish and strikes. Unlike drifting nymphs, these are often "stripped" or pulled through the water to mimic swimming prey.

How to Choose: A Simple Rule of Thumb

Low/Clear Water: Smaller, more natural-looking patterns.
High/Murky Water: Larger, flashier, or heavier-weighted patterns to get deep.

Why Categorization Matters

Protection: Dry flies have delicate hackles and wings that can be crushed if stored in tight foam slots. Compartment boxes are better for dry flies because they allow the flies to "breathe" without being mashed.

Efficiency: Grouping by function helps you quickly match the current fishing conditions. If you see fish rising, you grab your dry fly box; if you're fishing deep water, you reach for your nymph or streamer box.

Inventory Management: It is much easier to see which "zone" you are low on when flies are separated. You'll immediately notice if your nymph row is empty, whereas a mixed box might hide gaps.

Recommended Fly Box Categories

For a beginner, starting with 2–4 boxes is usually sufficient to cover the main functional zones:

Compartment Style Slotted Silicone Style

Pro Tips for Beginners

Label Your Boxes: If your boxes aren't clear, use a label maker or permanent marker to identify "Dries," "Nymphs," etc., so you don't have to open every box to find what you need.

The "Day Box" Strategy: Many anglers carry one small "working box" that contains a few favourites from each category for that day, while keeping their main categorized boxes in their pack as backup.
Dry Them First: Never put a wet fly back into a waterproof box; it can cause hooks to rust and materials to rot. Use a fly drying patch on your vest or pack first.

Essential Flies for Flowing Water (Rivers)

In rivers, food mostly drifts with the current. Your boxes should focus on "dead-drift" imitations of mayflies, caddis, and stoneflies.

Quick Beginner Shopping Tips

This article offers a beginner-friendly guide to selecting flies for fly fishing, prioritizing simplicity and function over confusing fly names. Rather than memorizing thousands of patterns, beginners are encouraged to group flies by what they do—whether they float on the surface, hover in the surface film, or sink below.

The three main categories are:

On the Surface (Dry Flies): Flies such as the Parachute Adams, Elk Hair Caddis, and Chornobyl Ant float and imitate adult insects. Use these when you see fish rising.

In the Surface Film (Emergers & Wets): Flies such as the Klinkhåmer Special and Soft Hackle Hares Ear mimic insects emerging through the water's surface. They're effective when fish are active but not taking dry flies.

Below the Surface (Nymphs & Streamers): Patterns such as the Pheasant Tail, Hare's Ear Nymph, Prince Nymph, and Woolly Bugger imitate underwater larvae, pupae, or baitfish. Most fish feed here most of the time.

Key tips include focusing on a fly's profile and size rather than colour, matching your fly to where fish are feeding, and organizing your fly boxes by function for efficiency.

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